The method we'll show you here is just one of many options you have. We are using a cabinet-grade sealer and topcoat finish with a professional spray gun. Look at our other tutorial on finishes for explanations of other options.

You can get a similar finish to what we are showing you here by using our MLCGLOSS or MLCSATIN. This is high quality pre-catalyzed lacquer that we have packed into convenient aerosols that have a superior fan spray tip. Take a look at any aerosol can you have around the house. If the spray tip simply has a round hole in it, it sprays a concentrated circular pattern (not good for topcoats). With a fan spray tip, you get a nice wide spray pattern that is easy to control and overlap without causing runs or drips. You can adjust these tips for a horizontal or vertical fan spray.

The product we are using on this kit is a catalyzed conversion varnish. It has a catalyst that you must add to the product before you spray it. This type of finish has a higher solids content than a lacquer, and therefore can be built up a bit more for a "thicker" gloss look. It also shrinks less and cures harder.

We first spray the shells with a sanding sealer made to be used with the topcoat. For an even finish, spray in a vertical pattern with a horizontal spray fan. Overlap each coat by 1/2. Remember that less is more, and spraying more on is easier than trying to fix sags or drips.

When you get to the topcoat stage, it is better to circle the shell 2 times with light coats than try to get a smooth "wet" coat the first time. Experience is the best teacher for this, but trust that those two light coats will melt into each other within 60 seconds to create a smooth look. At first the coat you just sprayed will look thick and nice, but will shrink as the solvents evaporate, so apply multiple coats to achieve your desired effect. Be careful not to spray and spray and spray on coats of lacquer. A finish that is too thick will take longer to cure and months or years down the road will crack because of the continual shrinkage.

Sand the sealer with dull 220 or 320 paper. While some products are considered "self sealing," we like sanding sealer because it dries quickly and sands easily. A good sanding sealer will sand smooth and create a fine powder.
Sanding hint: keep your sanding paper clog free by rubbing it with a cotton cloth occasionally during sanding.
Sanding myth: scratches you make with sanding paper in the early steps may show up later after you've sprayed topcoat on. This isn't true unless it is a BIG scratch - like 80 grit. Subsequent coats of material will fill in the scratches of previous coats. If you notice scratch marks it is probably because you are using a low quality sandpaper that has inconsistently sized particles.

Here is the order in quick these shells were processed:

1. Spray with Sanding Sealer
2. Wait 15 minutes
3. Spray with Sanding Sealer
4. Wait 1 or more hours
5. Sand shell with 220 to 320 grit
6. Spray topcoat
7. Wait 15 to 30 minutes
8. Spray topcoat
9. Wait 1 day
10. Final sanding with 600 grit
11. Spray final topcoat

Keep in mind that we are using a catalyzed finish that is made to harden quicker and more thoroughly through a chemical reaction. A regular lacquer dries and hardens through solvent evaporation which takes much longer.

Here the shells are ready for the final coat.

Yes, glossy shells are pretty.

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