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Drum Building Tutorial - Applying DF Self Adhesive Wrap
Applying Drum Foundry Adhesive Wrap
At Drum Foundry, we're all about helping you make drums easier, faster, and that ultimately look and sound great. When we examined the current methods of applying wrap we knew there must be a better way. Contact cement worked ok, but you have to use the
non-flammable stuff, which doesn't stick as well as the solvent based. In either case you're putting a coating of rubber on the shell anyway. The tape method where you put a strip at the seam and near the edges is easy, but because there isn't 100% coverage you'll get waving and buckling when the wrap shrinks and expands.
Our adhesive is an industrial 3M adhesive that has proven itself to outperform both contact cement and the "duct tape" method. We left wrapped shells outside in 95 degree heat and inside cars with no bubbling or other visible damage. The adhesive is formulated to gain strength with time, and will not cause wrap to shrink or curl. Another advantage of our adhesive is the thickness is absolutely even over the entire surface - always a problem with contact cement. As you'll
see below, you can precisely place your wrap and check alignment with ease.
If you'd like us to apply this adhesive to your wrap, you'll need to call us to order, or inform us in the COMMENTS section during checkout.
Wrap Purchased from Drum Foundry:
Full Sheet - $25.00
1/2 Fat or Skinny - $18.00
Non DF Wrap:
Full Sheets only - $35.00
For this wrap we have already cut the bearing edges. We cut the wrap so it is about 1/4" short of either bearing edge. The challenge, should you choose to accept it, is to make sure the wrap seams aligns! At the end of this tutorial we'll show you another method of cutting the wrap near the edges.
Adhesive wrap has a peel off liner.
You'll need to lightly cut just the liner about 1/2 way down the wrap.
Put the wrap on the shell, and pull the seams together as tightly as you can so the wrap is flat against the shell all the way around.
Clamp with two spring clamps. Make sure you peel back the protective liner of the bottom part of the seam.
With the wrap aligned like you want it, put a pair of spring clamps opposite of the seam (blue clamps). Put another pair of spring clamps on the side that is going to be the TOP of the seam. The CUT you put in the adhesive liner should be placed on the OTHER side, the bottom seam side.
To make sure your seam will align properly and predictably, draw a line around the edge so you can follow it later. You can do either one or both sides.
Start by peeling back a little bit of the liner. Remember, this side will be the BOTTOM of the seam.
Put your shell on a drumshell worker jig or 2x4 that is bridged across 2 benches. Peel back the liner a little bit at a time and work the wrap around the shell. Follow the alignment marks you drew earlier. At this point you will realize how important it is to pull the wrap tight before applying the spring clamps.
Once the first half is done, repeat for the second half.
POW! Dead on the money! Use a roller or roller press to push down the wrap to the shell.
Clamp the seam using two blocks of wood and let it cure for 24 hours. Yes, 24 HOURS!!! We know you want to finish your drum, but your seam will thank you.
Newbies may want to use a piece of wrap that is wider than the shell. This will make aligning the seam as shown above not as critical. An excellent way to trim the excess wrap is to use a utility knife and lay the shell and knife flat on a table.
© 2006-2008 Drum Foundry LLC
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